John Gill on Bouldering

John Gill is one of the many climber/scholars who visits the AAC Library. John, a longtime Colorado resident, has been a specialist in the art of bouldering since 1955. One of his important essays, "The Art of Bouldering", appears in the 1969 American Alpine Journal.

John has been writing an exhaustive history of bouldering on his website. You'll see that he found much of his information and several historic photos at the AAC Library. Recently, we helped John him track down a few artistic sketches that were published in the 1898 edition of the Scottish Mountaineering Club Journal.

We are grateful to John for writing the 2005 Friends of the Library appeal letter, the annual fundraising campaign the AAC holds each year to support the library. Please help us preserve this wonderful resource and become a Friend today!

You can read John Gill's biography, Master of Rock, written by his colleague Pat Ament. Where can you find it? You guessed it - the AAC Library!

Photo: John Gill working a problem in Little Owl Canyon near Pueblo, Colorado in 2002. Photo courtesy of John Gill.

Books and Flicks

See what's new for June! AAC, CMC, and Friend members can call or email us to borrow these new titles. Be sure to visit our catalog for a complete listing. Remember, borrowing and shipping are free!

Books
Eiger Obsession: Facing the Mountain that Killed My Father / John Harlin
Khangchendzonga: Sacred Summit / Pema Wangchuk
Together on Top of the World / Phil Ershler
Legs on Everest / Mark Inglis
Antarctic Journal of a Sailor on Operation Windmill 1947-48 / Edward Koenig

DVDs
Alpine Mountaineering on Mount Rainier
Madagascar: A Woman's First Ascent and Great Trango Tower: A Granite Mile High (double feature)
Everest: The Mountain at the Millenium
Shishapangma: A Celebration of Life and Himalaya: Descending India (double feature)
Sport Climbing 101 with Chris Lindner

Who Says Good Help Is Hard To Find?

We lucked out with intern Mike Wejchert. Mike will be working as the Library Assistant this summer. Mike is a climber, English student at Colorado College, and has proven to be an all-around big help at the library.

In his first week, Mike has already processed an enormous book donation (shown above), an equally enormous serials collection, answered a number of difficult reference questions (including one about iceberg climbing - he tracked down ice climber Will Gadd to get his input), and is writing an article for the Friends of the Library Newsletter.

Mike has a great attitude, tackles anything I throw at him, and his knowledge of climbing and mountaineering literature is nothing short of, well...amazing. AAC and CMC members can contact him at mwejchert@AmericanAlpineClub.org for beta on practically anything. Catch him before he's gone. Welcome aboard, Mike!

Ellingwood and Molenaar Visit Library

May was a big month for notable visitors. Robert Ellingwood, Colorado Mountain Club President from 1956-57, visited with library and museum staff to discuss a donation of tremendous historical significance.

Ellingwood's father, Albert Ellingwood, was a prominent CMC member from 1915 until his death in 1934. The elder Ellingwood made many first ascents considered impossible in his day, including Colorado fourteeners Crestone Peak, Crestone Needle, and Kit Carson. After his father's death, the junior Ellingwood collected his father's nine handwritten journals as well as his moutaineering gear. "It has been a dream of mine since 1940 that my father's manuscripts and artifacts find a permanent home in institutions like the American Alpine Club Library and Bradford Washburn Mountaineering Museum", said Ellingwood. Albert Ellingwood died when Robert was just 16. His obituary appears in the June 1934 issue of Trail and Timberline.

Dee Molenaar, American Alpine Club member since 1943 and member of the Third American Karakoram Expedition to K2 in 1953 (an expedition documented in K2: The Savage Mountain), stopped by with his friend (and library volunteer), Bob Ader. Molenaar still supports the AAC in a number of ways; he is an artist and donated two of his paintings for the silent auction at the AAC's 105th Annual Meeting in Bend, Oregon last March.

Photo #1 (left to right, taken by Wendy Hall, Boulder Public Library): CMC Executive Director Kristy Judd, Robert Ellingwood, Museum Director Niña Johnson, Library Director Gary Landeck

Photo #2 (left to right, taken by Gary Landeck): Dee Molenaar, library volunteer Bob Ader